A setback

Publikován dne 02. Lis, 2012 od veronika v Nezařazené Počet shlédnutí: 390 shlédnutí

A few weeks ago, President Obama assured the world that ISIS was „contained.“ Twenty four hours later, 130 people were murdered by ISIS in Paris. Apparently ISIS didn’t get the memo.

The president called the massacre a „setback.“ It is doubtful that the families of the victims viewed the slaughter in quite the same way, a mere „setback.“

Later, at the Paris climate gathering, the president argued that the conference represented a „powerful rebuke“ to the terrorists. cheap jerseys A week later, 14 Americans were murdered and a score wounded in San Bernardino by Syed Farook and Tashfeen Malik, a husband and wife terrorist team. (Another woman?) Perhaps they weren’t „rebuked“ enough.

Yet the president assures us that his plan is working, that there is no need for a change in his strategy. All of this has prompted many people to wonder just what planet he is living on.

A Shaded View on Fashion

Yesterday I was in love with skype and having fun transferring my files to Thierry for the photo albums. By mid day I was trashing the whole application. Seems that I forgot to put in my preferences to make my number available only to my few designated contacts. I had every pervert from Mexico, Morocco, Turkey, Sweden, Japan, USA calling me up and sending me texts with their photos and wanting to make „friendship“. It was a nightmare. Now I’ve trashed the application and have yet to replace it with another one. Justin suggested aduimx, I might give that a try. It’s hard to believe how many lonely wankers there are out there. No judgments of course but I just don’t want that in my life. Anina finally got SFR to turn on the GPRS so that I will be able to life blog. More on that later. I still have not even started on that pile of articles.

And I do hope that you are not jaded viewers. No time to preview Paris collections this week as I am in front of my computer with a pile of articles to write. It’s cold and windy in Paris and I just went out to pick up a few things, among them the Herald Tribune. Suzy Menkes wrote a very interesting article today „Which path is best for graduates?“. I highly recommend that you go out and pick it up. She was referring mostly to London fashion week but it is a global question. Should designers go out on their own or become a part of a team, etc. etc.

The IHT article referred to the latest crop of graduates from Central Saint Martins. I missed the show because I was out interviewing Penny Martin from Show Studio, Mark and Wakako of Eley Kishimoto and Uscha Pohl of Very and the Very Guides. No regrets because that had to be one of my most inspired days this London trip.

Floriane de Saint Pierre, Paris’s leading headhunter also had some rather interesting comments on the subject of resuscitating old houses or just letting them die a natural death. Could she have been referring to Givenchy among others?

It was also interesting to read the headlines that I receive daily from WGSN. Seems that my taste and that of many of the London buyers is not at all the same. For instance, Selfridges loved Bora Aksu and the buyers seemed to think that Gardem was sublime, I thought that it was a pale copy of two really talented designers, Rick Owens and Ann Demeulmeester. There is no right or wrong it is simply a matter of taste. We all seemed to like Emma Cook and Preen.

I’m meeting with Anina later to see if we can figure out how to audio blog on this site for the Paris collections. Don’t know how that will go but will keep you posted.http://www.vondutchwatches.com/nfl10291.php Thanks to my friend Thierry ///Kalimane I now will be able to post some audio onto my blog, that is if I ever figure out how to get the audio bytes from my nokia or off of my desktop. When I was in London my friend Robb Young thought that it could be fun to have an illustration of me with a megaphone, you know I have a rather soft voice, and call one of the lists Diane Speaks. I thought that was a fun idea so when I got back to Paris I asked my illustrator/designer/friend, Francois, from the design team Devastee if he could come up with one for me. You can see that he did, that is a bit more clevage and legs than you will ever see in real life but that is the beauty of an illustration. I also received the funniest photo of me from Gregor Doll of West East , it is me with artists and old friends of mine from New York, McDermott McGough.

Peter McGough, DP, and David McDermott shrinking so that I can be the tallest.

I had not been to London Fashion Week for several seasons and I must admit that it did feel good to be back. At the moment London is experiencing a bit of a crisis with so many designers opting to show elsewhere and there is an obvious lack of foreign press and buyers. The biggest loss this season was Boudicca who chose to show in New York. America is their strongest market and in fact the move makes a lot of sense.

The first person that I saw when I entered the Basso and Brooke show was Collin McDowell the man behind the Fashion Fringe. The idea of the yearly contest is to figure out a way to keep London fashion talent at home. In order to seduce the designers to stay in London they finance their collection for five years. I’ve spoken to quite a few people about the Fashion Fringe and it seems that there are various opinions on the subject. Some feel that it takes too much attention away from the designers that have paid their dues by being off calendar for years and then places too much attention on just one new designer a season. Basso and Brooke was the first ever winner of the Fashion Fringe and the first show that I attended this season. Their collection was based on the medieval myth of the succubus, the she devil and other playful sexual inspirations. These themes appeared as the subjects for the prints. I enjoyed the spectacle of it and found the clothes to be pretty okay. I must admit that the hair and make up reminded me of Thierry Mugler and the clothes looked like they were appealing to two countries, Russia and Brazil.

Collin McDowell from the Sunday TImes

Next stop, the Royal Academy for the Emma Cook show. I quite liked the collection. It did remind me a bit of Sofia Kokosolaki but none the less it had lots of good ideas and interesting details. Abstract prints on jersey dresses using cut work techniques and layering. I ran into my friends Robin Schulie, buyer from Marie Luisa in Paris, Lilianna Sanguino, the commercial for Eley Kishimoto and Robb Young, journalist and distributor for Diptrics in Japan. This crazy Italian journalist came running up to me telling me how great I looked the last time she saw me when I was wearing a pink dress. Last time I was in London she ran up to me with her camera crew and said how she had followed me around for days. She was mixing me up with Isabella Blow. What is the story with these people, I don’t look anything like Isabella.

The Italian Journalist that thinks I am Isabella Blow

I also ran into Aldric from Surface to Air with my favorite London PR Mandi Lennard. Mandi brought fashion icon Zandra Rhodes over to meet me and the two of us had a great conversation. It felt like the meeting of kindred spirits. She asked me if I would like a private view of her museum and her retrospective. Normally the museum is closed on Monday’s but she would be happy to receive me for a private viewing of her retrospective. I was thrilled. I also ran into Yorgo Tloupas the editor from Intersection magazine. He told me that he had his amazing bike parked out front but I missed it.

Mandi Lennard and Aldric from S2A

Day 2

It’s Valentine’s day and on the way to the B store for a presentation of the accessory designer Florian Ladstaetter’s work I ran into the designer twins Spikers and Spikers. They are showing now with Eastern Block. Never made it over there, sorry to say, but will do when the showroom moves to Paris next week.

I met Florian in Vienna when he was presenting his work in one of the containers in the Museum Quarter during Austrian Fashion week. I like what he does and asked Mandi’s assistant, Nova Dando to play model for us. Very colorful.

Robb Young with Lara Bohinc the jewelry and sunglass designer

Next stop was the Eley Kishimoto/Ellesse collection. This show was a real highlight. Last season there were only 12 looks this time it more than doubled. I liked the ski looks with white graphic inserts and the cropped trousers. Wakako and Mark decided to work the penquin logo into the prints. They had a human penquin as a guardian to the ski chalet. I was expecting the head to come off of the penquin at the end and to discover Mark Eley as our performer.

Now we had to run to our private showing at the Zandra Rhodes Fashion and Textile museum. It was a real treat to have a private guided tour. When we finished with the tour Zandra invited us up stairs for a tea and chat. I will visit his showroom in Paris. Zandra autographed a copy of her book titled ‘A Life long love affair with textiles’. The title says it all. My autograph, „To the divine Diane, love and admiration. Zandra Rhodes Keep being you.“ To say that I was quite touched is an understatement.

Original Zandra Rhodes

Her collaboration with Topshop which is bringing her looks to a whole new generation

Next was the Fashion East group show that happened to be in the same neighborhood. My friends Steven, Sebastien and Chrystl decided to kill a little time at the local pub. I had a Virgin Mary . Tracey Emmin was sitting in the front row with a journalist for the Independent. That woman was a bit weird. She came up to me after the Ellesse show and asked me who I was. I turned the question around to her and she got suddenly uncomfortable and said that she wrote for the Independent but not about fashion. It reminded me of another woman playing at being a journalist who was very annoying. At any rate she was sitting with Tracey Emmin.

Gareth Pugh was the finale designer for the show and we lived a bit of a very black and quite 80’s moment with a girl’s dress ballooning out as she teetered on a step blinded by her dress.


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